Art Dealer Monica Manzutto Shares Exclusive Tips on Navigating Mexico City's Art Scene
Life in the pulsating heart of Mexico City
A vivid memory of Mexico City remains etched in my mind - my first visit on a Sunday, November 11, 1984. Daddy dearest, a loving yet stern man, ushered us to school the following day, marking my entry into this captivating country. born to a Colombian mother and an Italian father, I've called Mexico home, having lived in Paris, Buenos Aires, and various parts of this incredible nation. Now, I share my life with a Mexican partner and our offspring, cementing my identity as a Méxicana. Yet, grappling with the essence of Mexico took years, especially considering that my school, the French Lycée, did not nurture my understanding of Mexican history or geography. I've since embraced the challenge of exploring and comprehending this nation, delving into its complexities, landscapes, and societal aspects.
Meeting my partner, José, introduced me to a thriving world of artists. Gabriel Orozco, who was already making waves on the art scene, encouraged me to open a gallery and represent him and his artist friends. The contemporary art scene in Mexico City was sparse, with energy predominantly revolving around artist-run spaces, rather than museums or established galleries. Driven by the spirit of adventure, we decided to take the plunge, using unconventional spaces like a market stall at Mercado de Medellín, where artworks were featured and sold at market prices. This innovative move garnered widespread attention, including front-page coverage in the national newspaper. Over time, we expanded to various locations around the city, eventually settling in the San Miguel Chapultepec neighborhood, where we reside today in our gallery, Kurimanzutto.
Mexico City is replete with stories, and it's fascinating to delve into its past. South neighborhoods, historically known as intellectual hubs, have housed illustrious figures such as Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera, and Rufino Tamayo. San Miguel Chapultepec, where we dwell, boasts an impressive hacienda once home to Manuel Mondragón, a significant player in the Mexican revolution. His daughter, Nahui Olin, was a painter and muse to Dr Atl and many others. The vibrant neighborhoods of Roma and Condesa, expanding rapidly, offer cool restaurants and cafes, earning their place among visitors' favorite spots.
Favorite eateries in the city include Contramar, a restaurant frequented by locals and a great place to connect with friends. I admire chef Elena Reygadas of Rosetta for her artistic approach to cuisine, sourcing ingredients from far-flung locations like Ensenada and Oaxaca. Nicos, a humble cafeteria, serves up incredible, unpretentious food worth traveling for, while Casa Merlos specializes in traditional Pueblan mole - a rich, flavorful sauce.
Besides the culinary scene, I find myself captivated by downtown Mexico City. The Templo Mayor, the stretch of the Zócalo, and museums like the Museum of Abelardo L Rodriguez, home to a Noguchi mural, offer glimpses into the histories of indigenous cultures and the Spanish conquest. There's an abundance of shopping destinations, from the eclectic textiles of Remigio Mestas and the vivid ceramics of Perla Valtierra to the bustling Abelardo L Rodriguez Market.
Culture is the primary driver behind my experiences in Mexico City. A burgeoning group of artists and galleries like Campeche, Pequod Co, and Salon Silicón are shaping the contemporary art landscape and keep me intrigued. With curiosity, I explore new discoveries, like the old Salon de la Plastic Mexicana filled with images of artworks, while absorbing the narrative of Mexico's past through literature, like Álvaro Enrigue's novel chronicling the encounter between Moctezuma and Cortés.
Mexico City is a city of layers, pulsating with energy in various forms - culturally, politically, and socially. My connection to the city is multifaceted, reflecting its spirit and rhythm, inviting me to delve deeper, uncovering new stories at every turn.
BARS, CAFÉS & RESTAURANTS * Casa Merlos: C Gral Victoriano Zepeda 80, Observatorio, 11860 * Contramar: www.contramar.com.mx * Nicos: Av Cuitláhuac 3102, Claveria, 02080 * Restaurante Rosetta: rosetta.com.mxSHOPPING * Mercado de Medellín: Campeche 101, 06760 * Remigio Mestas: @remigiomestas * Perla Valtierra: perlavaltierra.shopTHINGS TO DO * Abelardo L Rodriguez Market: Centro Histórico de la Cdad de México, 06020 * Campeche: galeriacampeche.com * Kurimanzutto: kurimanzutto.com * Pequod Co: pequodco.com * Salon Silicón: salonsilicon.com * Templo Mayor: 8 Seminario St, 06060 * Zócalo: Centro Histórico de la Cdad de México, 06010
- Nestled in the San Miguel Chapultepec neighborhood, where we reside, is our gallery, Kurimanzutto, a significant player in the contemporary art scene of Mexico City.
- South neighborhoods, known for their intellectual heritage, have housed celebrated figures such as Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera, and Rufino Tamayo, adding to the city's rich history.
- Besides art, Mexico City is renowned for its vibrant food-and-drink scene; Casa Merlos, a restaurant specializing in traditional Pueblan mole, is worth traveling for.
- In the heart of downtown Mexico City, the Abelardo L Rodriguez Market offers a variety of goods, from Perla Valtierra's vivid ceramics to Remigio Mestas' eclectic textiles.
- The Templo Mayor and museums like the Museum of Abelardo L Rodriguez, home to a Noguchi mural, provide insights into the city's indigenous cultures and the Spanish conquest, making them must-visit destinations in the metropolis.
