Riding Dirty on Cambodia's Ancient East Royal Road: An Adventure Through the Khmer Empire
Journeying a Distance of 100 kilometers into the Ancient Civilization of Asia
Straddling dusty tracks and clinging to the back of a dirty bike, I navigate Cambodia's East Royal Road - a wild ride through the historic heartland of the Khmer Empire.
As I blow out candles on my birthday cake in Raffles Grand Hotel d'Angkor, Siem Reap, I look up at the wrought iron lift gate, imagining Jackie Kennedy's elegant ascent during her 1967 visit. Meeting my guide, Pheakdey "Dey" Sieng, from tour operator About Asia, we embark on an epic adventure along the East Royal Road, connecting the ancient temples of Angkor Wat, Beng Mealea, and Preah Khan Kompong Svay. This route was once part of a vast 3,000km road network that stretched from the Khmer Empire's capital, Angkor, to modern-day Thailand, Vietnam, Laos, and Myanmar.
Here's the skinny on what sets the East Royal Road apart: it's loaded with remnants of Khmer infrastructure - bridges, ponds, walls, embankments, and resthouse temples - making it a treasure trove for ardent temple explorers and off-road bikers.
While five royal roads connected the capital with its provincial cities, the East Royal Road boasts the largest collection of intact infrastructure, providing an unparalleled glimpse into the Khmer Empire's past.
As we leave Siem Reap along the ancient earthen road, now mostly following paved Highway 6, we marvel at the heatwave-induced struggle ahead. With temperatures above 40°C and a scorching UV index, we brace ourselves for an intense journey.
Dey's plan was to explore Preah Khan, Beng Mealea, and save Angkor for another day. After enduring Kampong Kdei's 86-meter rust-colored bridge with 21 arches, we blasted off-road, exchanging cement homes for wooden houses on stilts, our heartbeats racing as we zoom past villagers and livestock.
Preah Khan was quieter than Angkor Wat, and wandering through its tombstone-like ruins adorned with three-headed stone swans, divine birds, elephants, nagas, and elusive masterpieces like the "Mona Lisas of Southeast Asia," we felt like trespassers in a beautiful, eerie secret garden.
After a rustic meal in a thatched hut, we hunted down dirt bikes for the next leg of our journey from Preah Khan to Beng Mealea. With every bone-rattling pothole and jutting tree branch, the dusty, rutted path tested our courage, but the thrill was addictive.
We stopped at the remote rest stop, Sopheap Tbong, to envision ancient travelers and pilgrims seeking respite during their long journeys. The road from Preah Khan to Beng Mealea is dotted with firehouses and larger resthouse temples, but little research has been done on them due to their inaccessibility.
Beng Mealea, constructed around the same time as Angkor Wat, was a captivating wonder that left me breathless. Silk cotton trees and strangler figs mingled with stone ruins, while moss-covered carvings whispered tales of Hindu legends and empire splendor.
As the sun set, I limped back to Siem Reap, my heart pounding not with exhaustion but exhilaration. The East Royal Road had proven to be an unforgettable, visceral journey through the heart of the Khmer Empire - an adventure for the daring and history buffs alike.
The Open Road is a celebration of the world's most remarkable highways and byways, and a reminder that some of the greatest travel adventures happen via wheels.
Published: 21st Aug 2024
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Embarking on an epic adventure, I travel along the East Royal Road, a dusty route that forms part of the Khmer Empire's ancient road network.
Exploring the off-road biking experience, I encounter remnants of Khmer infrastructure, such as bridges, ponds, temples, and embankments, which make the East Royal Road a treasure trove for temple explorers and history buffs.
